Josef Umathum is the leading grower in the village of Frauenkirchen in the Neusiedlersee region of Austria. The local climate, with mild springs, hot summers and mild autumns, is highly conducive to growing grapes for fine winemaking. The soils of Umathum’s 18.5 hectares of vineyard are warm and permeable and, being rich in minerals such as manganese, they are particularly suitable for seriously good red wine such as the local grape variety St. Laurent, a mutation of Pinot Noir.

In the vineyards, respect for the environment is the guiding principle. The soils are treated as naturally as possible; grass covers the earth to encourage wild life; clusters of grapes are thinned and weak shoots removed in order to reduce yields; and harvesting is by hand.

The same fastidious care is evident in the winemaking, mirroring the perfectionist principles employed at the best estates in Bordeaux and Burgundy. Slow fermentations produce subtle, tightly-knit and well-balanced wines with a real taste of their origins. The 1995 St. Laurent from the Vom Stein vineyard is a very exciting glass of red wine. The colour is a deep Victoria plum, there are scents of briary fruit, spices and vanilla, new wood lends a touch of sweetness to the ripe berry flavours - yet it is all beautifully judged, for although full and smooth the wine remains refined and long-flavoured, in no way overextracted.