Marc and Pierrette Guillemot own a Domaine of 7 hectares in the commune of Quintaine, adjacent to the village of Clesse. Quintaine is recognised as producing some of the finest wines of the Maconnais, having a special micro-climate caused by the close proximity of the river Soane. As far back as 1938 a small number of Macon villages were recognised by the Congress des Societies Savautes de Bourgogne as producing outstanding wines; amongst them were Fuisse, for its fine, dry white wines, and Quintaine, for rich wines with more than a touch of sweetness. Yes - two Domaines in the tiny hamlet of Quintaine produce in certain years late harvest, botrytis-affected Chardonnays. These are perhaps the most remarkable white wines in the whole of Burgundy.

Marc and Pierrette are a young couple who managed to break away from the Cave Co-operative system in 1984, willingly forfeiting one whole year's production in return for freedom from a system that rewards quantity, not quality. Organic methods of production were used for the first three years as they believed this system made finer, more characterful wines - it is not just idealism. They use no artificial herbicides or pesticides and produce their own compost for the vines from a blend of marc (the cake of skins and pips left after the grapes are pressed) and manure from organically reared animals.

During the harvest, they systematically taste their way through the vineyards, tagging those vines whose fruit they think have markedly interesting characteristics and concentration. In February cuttings are taken to graft onto root stock and, gradually, the vineyards will be replanted with these homegrown, especially selected vines.

Pierrette told me on a walk through the vineyards that they were disillusioned with the clones that the University in Beaune were suggesting. The Maconnais has a richer soil and warmer climate than the Cote d'Or and therefore can produce larger crops of somewhat uninteresting fruit.

Limiting the size of the crop is one of the most important factors in the production of exceptional wines in the Maconnais. The appellation limit is 60 hectolitres per hectare. A leeway of 20% is allowed, but many producers go far beyond this allowance, maintaining 'black' cellars where the illegal over-production is kept for family gatherings or to sell locally. Flouting the law on this scale lowers the quality of their whole crop, reducing the concentration of the grapes and producing thin, ordinary wines. To restrict quantities, Marc and Pierrette only leave one 'baguette' or main stalk when pruning, rather than two as is traditional. This automatically cuts their potential crop in half.

Since 1991 the Guillemots have been bio-dynamic producers, a method of production followed by the famous Lalou Bize-Leroy at her Domaine in the Cote d'Or. Bio-dynamic production is basically governed by the movements of the moon. For example, weeding at certain times in the cycle of the moon results in the weeds reappearing less quickly, an important factor when herbicides are not used. Bio-dynamics also involves putting back into the plant part of its production, hence the production of a compost from the marc of grape skins and pips left after pressing.

By far the major proportion of the Guillemots' production is of Macon Clesse, Quintaine. This delightful dry white wine has lovely fruit and complexity and a richness and depth rarely found in this region. They have experimented with using oak, but feel that even five year old barrels give too much wood flavour to the wine. They prefer to allow the purity of the Chardonnay fruit to shine through.

Their pride and joy is a wine produced from a tiny quantity of Botrytis Cinerea affected, late-picked grapes - named Grains Cendres, after the Latin for Cinerea. This is exotic, voluptuous, SWEET Chardonnay - a true delight. Taste this wonderful wine and imagine what food would best accompany it. Suggestions include, delicate fruity desserts - something simple, Tarte aux Pommes for instance - Poulet a la Creme, or maybe lobster with a rich shellfish sauce. In fact, Marc and Pierrette are constantly experimenting, searching for new ideas, willing to take on board both traditional and modern methods. We foresee a great future for this charming couple.