Chateau de la Gardine is a Chateauneuf estate to watch, for the quality of the wines has risen steadily since the mid-1980’s thanks to heavy investment by the progressive Brunel brothers, Maxime and Patrick. Their impressive cellar sports the latest stainless-steel pigeage (punching down) fermentation tanks to extract maximum aromas from the grapes, and new oak barriques are as evident here as in the great chateaux of Bordeaux.

The vineyard is a sizeable 56-hectares situated to the west of Chateauneuf on the edge of the Mont-Redon plateau. The 50 hectares of red wine grapes are predominantly Grenache (70 per cent) but Syrah accounts for 15 per cent and Mourvedre 5 per cent, the remainder being made up of Cinsault and Muscardin. The estate also makes an improving white Chateauneuf from 6 hectares of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Bourboulenc and Clairette.

The style of the red wine is richly fruity and peppery, true to the tradition of Grenache-driven Chateauneuf. At the same time that style is changing subtly owing to a decently long but not exaggerated spell in the fermentation vats (about 2 weeks) and the replacement of the old oak foudres by new oak barriques.

The white wines are aromatic and well-made, with no trace of oxidation. The winemaking techniques are intricate and varied. The Grenache Blanc and the Clairette are vinified in stainless-steel to avoid contact with air, while the Rousanne and the Bourboulenc are fermented in new oak. This wine usually needs four or five years in bottle to intergrate the vanilla flavours of the oak.